Custom-Tailored Clothing: A New Era of Sustainable Fashion

It’s no secret that fast fashion is wreaking havoc on our environment. Our appetite for the latest fashion trends has led to the emergence of a business model where production and consumption progress in ever-faster cycles. The average consumer in 2014 bought a

Custom-tailored fashion, also known as made-to-measure clothing, was once the domain of the luxury market. But the rise of eCommerce and more sophisticated supply chain technology has made it possible to scale this business model to a nearly global audience. Because every garment is produced to order, this dramatically cuts down on textile waste and energy usage. Consumers also have the pleasure of knowing that they own a garment which is totally unique, rather than straight off the rack. In this post, we speak to the owners/designers of two custom-tailored clothing brands who are paving the way for a more sustainable approach to fashion. Anne Whiting of Anne James New York and Nathalie Neuilly of Dressarte Paris tell us all about the future of made-to-measure fashion in the age of eCommerce:

Q: How did you come to start a made-to-measure apparel brand?

Nathalie: My sister and I grew up having most of our clothes tailored by our mum, who has been running a small atelier for 25 years now. So, from a very early age we enjoyed wearing unique clothes imagined by us. As I grew up, the desire to wear unique high-quality clothes became stronger, as nothing can be more frustrating than wearing the same dress as other 5 female colleagues in an office, right? I used to work as an international auditor in Paris, working day & night, always on the go. It was almost impossible for me to find time for fittings, as I always wanted to customise the garments I saw and make them tailored so they could fit perfectly. Every time I bought clothes, I needed to have them tailored: either the sleeves were too short or pants were too long. As I’m someone who has very sensitive skin, fabrics are the first thing that I pay attention to when choosing clothes. So, I felt that there is a niche in the market: busy women struggling to find the right size and style who don’t have time for fittings at a tailor, but who still want to look unique.

Anne: Custom-fit apparel is the natural amalgamation of my values as an independent atelier designer. It wasn’t my initial concept, as when one first imagines having a fashion label he or she thinks inventory, fabulous stockists, trunk shows, everyone wearing the clothes, etc. But my journey building an eponymous brand has been a long reckoning with my beliefs about fashion’s meanings and my hopes for the industry, and with what I really want to do as yet another fashion designer in a hugely saturated industry. I believe fashion should make people feel wonderful and powerful in their own skin. I believe this industry should be more careful with its resources and in touch with its roots. And I want to serve with my art, my art of beautiful clothes. Made-per-order, made-to-measure clothing is the way for my brand to do this.

Q: How does it work? What is it you do to reduce waste as much as possible?

Nathalie: Dressarte is the first sustainable virtual atelier that produces clothes accordingly clients style and body measurements. Everything starts with a simple questionnaire that clients fill in indicating their preferences for style, fabrics, budget but also their body shapes as it will allow our stylists to offer the most suitable styles. Once the form is submitted, our stylists prepare sketches of clothes that we can tailor for clients and also preselect fabrics. Designs can be modified and adjusted until clients are satisfied. This service is free for the moment and clients pay only if they decide to proceed with any of the offered designs.

Anne: I have my AJNY designs and silhouettes, and my clients are able to choose their favorites while explaining to me what they need in their wardrobe, how specific pieces can serve them better. Then I take their measurements and we make sure that the arms fit perfectly and the waist-to-hip ratio is customized and flattering and that pant lengths are the preferred length, etc. Making garments per order exclusively means I only use what materials are needed at the time of order. There’s no overproduction. Also, I use leftover fabrics from other fashion houses, helping them minimize their waste and overstock. Moreover, each piece is perfectly made meaning my clients will love and wear their Anne James garments for a long time.

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